A wild beach between cliffs and the Atlantic
Pen Hat Beach, roughly 800 metres of fine sand mixed with pebbles between Pointe du Toulinguet and Pointe de Pen Hir, is one of the wildest beaches on the Crozon peninsula (commune of Camaret-sur-Mer), 85 km (1 hr 20 min) from Fouesnant. Framed by Armorican sandstone cliffs reaching 60 metres, voted "France's favourite beach" in 2024, its waters shift between turquoise and emerald, but swimming is strictly forbidden due to extremely dangerous currents (baïnes).
The beach in pictures
Photos: Wikimedia Commons (Creative Commons licence)
What visitors say
⭐ "Large sand and pebble beach with cliffs alongside. Lots of waves, few tourists and parking nearby. Warning: swimming is forbidden."
Romain C., Findweek⭐ "The water, shifting between turquoise and emerald, is jealously guarded on each side by tall, beautiful cliffs. Natural, wild, peaceful."
Chris K., Findweek⭐ "Wind, waves and fun. Paradise!"
Samuel S., Findweek
Swimming: why it is forbidden
Swimming is strictly forbidden at Pen Hat by municipal decree of Camaret-sur-Mer. This is not merely a recommendation: it is a formal ban, and with good reason. The beach combines several danger factors that make it one of the deadliest in Brittany.
Rip currents (baïnes)
Baïnes form in the sand at Pen Hat: these are depressions carved by the waves which fill with water on the incoming tide, then drain violently seaward, creating rip currents invisible from the surface. These currents, measured at up to 2 to 3 metres per second, are impossible to swim against, even for an experienced swimmer. To put that in perspective, an Olympic 50-metre freestyle champion swims at roughly 2.3 metres per second in a sprint.
Waves and exposure
Facing due west, Pen Hat receives the Atlantic swell head-on with no barrier. Waves regularly exceed 4 metres in height, and on stormy days they can reach far higher. The shore break (waves breaking directly at the water's edge) is violent and can slam a swimmer to the bottom in a split second.
A tragedy that underlines the danger
On 26 July 2022, a 72-year-old man drowned at Pen Hat despite the intervention of a rescue helicopter. This tragedy, far from an isolated case, is a reminder that the sea at Pen Hat does not forgive carelessness. There is no lifeguard station on the beach.
Water temperature
Water temperature ranges between 14 and 17 °C in summer, which in itself would cause rapid cold shock for an unequipped swimmer. But this point is secondary: swimming is forbidden regardless of the temperature or apparent conditions.
Pen Hat has no green algae problem: it is an open-ocean beach, constantly swept by ocean currents.
Pointe de Pen Hir and the Tas de Pois
Pointe de Pen Hir rises just south of Pen Hat Beach, reachable in a few minutes along the GR34 coastal path. It is one of the most iconic natural sites on the Crozon peninsula, and one of the most spectacular in all of Brittany.
The cliffs and the Tas de Pois
The Armorican sandstone cliffs plunge sheer into the ocean from a height of 63 metres. At the foot of the headland, five rocks emerge from the water in single file: these are the Tas de Pois, rocky stacks sculpted by marine erosion. Each bears a Breton name: Bern Id, Ar Forc'h, Chelott, Pen Glaz and Daouët. On a clear day, the panorama stretches from Pointe du Raz to the south to Pointe Saint-Mathieu to the north.
The Croix de Pen-Hir
At the summit of the headland stands the Croix de Pen-Hir, a granite monument erected in memory of the Bretons of the Free French Forces. The cross was unveiled on 15 July 1951 by General de Gaulle himself. The site is a place of remembrance and reflection, with views stretching far across the Atlantic and the islands.
Lagatjar stone alignments
A few hundred metres from the headland, set back from the coast, the Lagatjar megalithic alignments bear witness to ancient human settlement. This site, dating from around 2,500 BC, still has about a hundred aligned standing stones, remnants of a much larger complex. Access is free.
Getting there and parking
Pen Hat Beach is in the commune of Camaret-sur-Mer, at the western tip of the Crozon peninsula.
By car from Camaret
From the centre of Camaret-sur-Mer, take Rue du Toulinguet towards the headland. About 150 metres after the second bend, turn left following signs for "Pen Hat". The road leads straight to the car park.
Parking
The Pen Hat car park is free and open 24 hours. Campervans are not allowed. In peak season (July-August), we recommend arriving before 10:00 AM to find a space.
Getting down to the beach
From the car park, a coastal path of a few hundred metres leads to the top of the cliff, then a stairway takes you down to the sand. The descent is moderate but can be slippery in wet weather. Wear sturdy shoes.
From Fouesnant
Pen Hat Beach is roughly 85 km from Fouesnant, about 1 hr 20 min by road via Châteaulin and the Pont de Térénez. It makes a perfect day trip from Cap Coz.
Dogs
Dogs are banned from the beach from 1 June to 30 September (municipal decree). The fine for non-compliance is around €38. Outside this period, dogs are tolerated, preferably on a lead.
Summer alternative: the GR34 paths around Pointe de Pen Hir offer wonderful walks with your dog without breaking the rules.
Surfing at Pen Hat
Pen Hat is one of the most renowned surf spots on the Crozon peninsula, but it is strictly for experienced surfers. The conditions are powerful and currents are ever-present.
Conditions
Pen Hat is a beach break (sandy bottom) producing both rights and lefts. The best conditions come with a north-easterly wind (offshore) combined with a westerly swell. The spot works at all tides, but mid-incoming tide generally produces the best waves.
The required level is expert. Lateral currents and rip currents make getting in and out of the water tricky. Surfing alone here is strongly discouraged, and beginners should stay well away.
Surf schools nearby
Several surf schools operate in Camaret and the surrounding area. They offer supervised lessons at spots suited to each student's level (generally La Palue for beginners, not Pen Hat):
Camaret Surf School
Group and private lessons for all levels. Price: around €45 / 2 hrs.
Mobydick Surf
Surf school based on the Crozon peninsula. Lessons and courses throughout the season.
Magnet Surf School
Supervised lessons, equipment hire and guided outings on the peninsula.
GR34 and hiking
The GR34 long-distance footpath (the customs officers' path) runs directly along the cliffs above Pen Hat Beach. This stretch is part of one of the most spectacular sections of the entire GR34, which is saying something when you consider the path covers the whole Breton coast for over 2,000 kilometres.
Camaret to Pen Hir to La Palue section
The full route from Camaret-sur-Mer to La Palue Beach via Pointe de Pen Hir covers roughly 16 km. Allow 4 to 5 hours of walking, taking time to enjoy the views. The path alternates between heather and gorse moorland, vertiginous overhangs above turquoise waters, rocky ridge crossings and descents to beaches.
Highlights of this section:
- Tour Vauban and Pointe du Toulinguet at the start from Camaret
- Pen Hat Beach seen from the clifftops
- Pointe de Pen Hir and the Tas de Pois
- Croix de Pen-Hir and the memorial
- Lagatjar stone alignments
- Descent to Lostmarc'h and its Devonian fossils
- Arrival at La Palue, a major surf beach
The waymarking is excellent (white-and-red GR markers). Bring water, sun protection and suitable hiking shoes. The wind can be very strong on the exposed headlands.
Restaurants in Camaret-sur-Mer
As Pen Hat is a wild beach with no facilities, the nearest restaurants are in the town of Camaret-sur-Mer, a few minutes by car or 20 minutes on foot.
Stay at Cap Coz to explore the Crozon peninsula
The Crozon peninsula and Pen Hat Beach make an ideal day trip from our apartments at Cap Coz in Fouesnant. Leave in the morning and you have the whole day to explore the cliffs, admire the Tas de Pois and have lunch in Camaret, before heading back in the late afternoon to the gentle shores of the Baie de la Forêt.
